Growth Factors

Best

Peptide

Growth Factors at a glance

  • Chains of amino acids
  • Usually refers to epidermal growth factors
  • Regulate cell growth
  • Show promise in improving numerous skin conditions

Growth Factors description

Growth factors are intriguing substances gaining steam in the world of skin care after their studied application in medical settings. Simply put, growth factors are polypeptides (chains of amino acids, or proteins) that regulate certain processes in the body at a cellular level. For the purposes of this definition, we’re focusing on epidermal growth factors (EGF), though there are other growth factors, including fibroblast growth factors, keratinocyte growth factors and platelet-derived growth factors, just to name a few. EGF in particular regulates cell growth and proliferation, binding to proteins found in certain cells that impact their survival. While research is still emerging regarding exactly how growth factors can be applied in cosmetic settings as opposed to its use in medical procedures, early studies show some promising results. One found that the use of EGF helped improve blemishes, dermatitis, skin aging and even some forms of hyperpigmentation. One of the biggest challenges at this point is that EGF tend to be unstable, so methods of stabilizing them enough to make them viable for cosmetic applications are underway. Growth factors also tend to be too large* to penetrate skin, making their delivery an issue. Interestingly, several signal peptides, which are much smaller, have growth factor-like activity on skin, leading to reduced signs of aging and a visible difference in skin’s firmness. It’s an exciting area of study when it comes to new skin care ingredients, and one we will be following closely! _*Growth factors tend to have an average molecular weight of 15,000 Daltons. Ingredients whose molecular weight is 500 Daltons or less can easily penetrate skin._

Growth Factors references

  • British Journal of Dermatology, July 2024, pages 92–106
  • International Wound Journal, August 2023, pages 2,414-2,423
  • Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, April-June 2021, pages 137-146
  • International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2021, pages 123-130
  • Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, November 2016, pages 411–419
  • Medicina Clinica, October 2015, pages 305-312

Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.

Ingredient ratings

Best

Proven and supported by independent studies. Outstanding active ingredient for most skin types or concerns.

Good

Necessary to improve a formula's texture, stability, or penetration.

Average

Generally non-irritating but may have aesthetic, stability, or other issues that limit its usefulness.

Bad

There is a likelihood of irritation. Risk increases when combined with other problematic ingredients.

Worst

May cause irritation, inflammation, dryness, etc. May offer benefit in some capability but overall, proven to do more harm than good.

unknown

We couldn't find this in our ingredient dictionary. We log all missing ingredients and make continuous updates.

Not rated

We have not yet rated this ingredient because we have not had a chance to review the research on it.